The UK C1 Forum - Not logged in
Bike received last night, and was filthy with two years of dirt on it. Really mucky!
Quick checkover revealed:
At least one stand cable is broken. So is weak link.
Lhs panels are broken. Two badly-anyone got a spare silver lower panel that fits around the seat belt socket?
Both Tits are badly damaged.
Rear subframe (pdb area)damaged with loops missing.
seat belt socket damaged
sound kit-dry, but will be removed.
Exhaust studs rusted on to engine
Given it a jet wash. Connected new battery. Engine won't turn over properly (Engine"thunks" on starter). Thinking timing chain snapped.
Now away in shed. Will have to strip engine down to see if chain is complete. Doubt it. Expect it snapped and bent the valves. Will have better look with engine out. If i can rotate the cams and then rotate the engine maybe the valves will be straight. If so, I'll put a new chain on it now and use it as is. I'll also check the valves are seating properly by doing a compression test with the valves set in to the head (TDC) according to the cams.
If I get good compression hopefully that means the valves are seating properly, I could also try filling the inlet channels with petrol and checking time for it to seep away. Same for exhaust.
If they leak quickly, the valve is bent and not seating. Needs head off, new valves, grinding in, new gasket, torquing back up. (And new timing chain).
If the petrol just sits there....new chain and away we go.
We will see....
Update; this was going to be a thread on the engine rebuild, but I've just been offered a 5,000 mile 200 engine which has just had shims done.
Looks like I'll remove the engine and see what's needed. If its just a chain I;ll do that otherwise I'll swap the low mileage one in (now bought), and work on the busted one when I get around to it.
Chain is complete. Inlet cam has chipped a bit out of the locating pin area. Timing way off so I'll have to check if the chain is loose.
Bucket shims are stuck in the down position-so valves are bent.
I've got spare valves.
I need head gasket (any other gaskets?) and ideally a new inlet cam. Not sure if I have one
So I'd be grateful for advice on where to get gasket and which ones if more than just the head, and if anyone has a spare inlet cam please get in touch.
I'll have to check the chain tension when it's back together.
Got a spare inlet cam if you need it
Took the head off. One valve snapped. One clearly bent. Other two to be investigated!
Need spring compressor and valve grinding tools. Mine are too big to be used here!
Piston had evidence of mashing the valves but seems solid.
I'll replace the timing chain as
-1-it's done 25,000 miles
-2-not sure what else would have caused such a problem. Clearly the chip out of the cam/wheel locator is a problem, but can't tell if it was as a result of, or if it caused, the chain to jump.
One valve broken, two bent.
Lapped in the one remaining one, and lapped in two of the others.
Last one is a bugger. I expect the broken valve ended up getting trapped in this one, so the seat
is little bit worse than the others.
Bought a pair of lapping sticks from eBay. They'll last long enough to do this job but then I reckon that's it!
I should be able to put the head back together before turning in-but my god those collets are tiny!
Does anyone know the torque for the cam carrier please? I can't find my manual.
I've reassembled the head and am checking the clearances with the shims I have.
Got it. 10Nm or 7.38 lbft
Clearances .08 inlet. .25+ exhaust.
Waiting to pick up head gasket at weekend and I'll put the new chain on and put it all back together next week.
Got head gasket and other gasket and reassembled today. Put a new chain in but the old one wasn't that bad. One thing though, the chain tensioner (spring loaded) was definitely weaker than my spare. So I put the better one on and the new chain obviously.
Checked compression. About 13 bar so I'm happy the valve lapping was ok.
Changed the final drive oil (which was very clear so must have been changed very little mileage ago.
Out new oil filter in. No oil in yet as that's another kilo I'd have to manhandle in.
I'm removing the sound deadening kit to reduce heat and rust problems. I
Bought 5l of petrol in a can, as well as 4l of paraffin. I've not used paraffin for 30'years, but rexommmend it for cleaning off cruddy oil mess. As effective as gunk cleaner but don't need to hose it down, just wipe off with rags and bin them
Now engine is sat in shed waiting to go back in the bike. Maybe tomorrow. Then I'll add petrol and cross my fingers.
All back in. Oil and water with antifreeze. Fired up after a few spins. Took it out for a test run and it runs bloody well! Helped of course by a new timing chain and perfect valve clearances.
ABS seems fine and brakes are sharp.
Bike stil needs tidying-stand broken, some -bits missing and in need of lube etc.
That's for another day.
Spare tit put on. Fiddled with new seatbelt catch that was catching andits now ok.
Got an MOT-and found that my thermostat was broken-pin has punched its way through.
So my new spare is now on.
Will refill later and test again. At least I know fans and warning light work.
I had roughly same problems with my c1 200, It started running rough then wouldn't start. Stripped it down found the valve timing out. No apparent valve damage and the chain seemed fine, also the cams and drive. seems to have slipped at the crank end. 25k to 30k miles, regularly serviced. I'm thinking in terms of a new crank and bearings.
Check timing chain tensioner!
Oh-and also the inlet cam to see if the "woodruff key" (can't remember what it's actually called) has slipped in the cam allowing the cam wheel to
Rotate on the cam shaft
Yeh did all that. all fine. By the way 125 and 200 cams seem interchangeable from previous rebuild of another engine.
Hi there do you mind telling me roughly what you paid for the bike? Many thanks Mel
Powered by mwForum 2.16.1 © 1999-2008 Markus Wichitill